![]() ![]() Certainly it could be a waste of time and effort but the concept seems ok with what I THINK I understand about wood at this point. Seems like that would still allow the panel to expand in three directions since only one of four sides would be held stationary. I guess the only thing I'm still curious about is gluing only a left side of the panel. It has "Kumaru" stamped on the back of it. It's not really teak but a common name is Brazillian Teak. It does have a spicey aroma but I haven't seen the "Cabbage Bark" name associated with this stuff. Yes, I guess this project would have been easier had I gone with a standard wood but I bought it from a guy who overbought. I had wondered about taping areas I wanted to be clean so the specifics on that are also great. I hadn't previously heard the tip about glue on butt ends being useless. I just finished running the stiles through the router and I'm doing mortise/tenon joints. It was a last-minute concern so the quick advice has been very helpful. OOps, now I'm the one who's behind! Again, thanks for all the helpful comments. ![]() This post was edited by ctycdm on Fri, Oct 3, 14 at 16:40 Gorrlliia glue is good but also messy, Titebond II works well, but if the wood is very oily like Teak, you might want to use a powdered aliphatic resin glue and mix it.Īre you doing mortise and tenon, or dowel joints? I'm a slow typer, just saw the other responses ) If you are really concerned about shear, make your bottom rail a bit wider, a very classic look on lots of old furniture and cabinetry, as well as how all passage and entry doors are made. While your wood may be heavy, so is a solid Oak or Walnut raised or recessed panel entry door which relies on the same basic stile and rail construction. You are over thinking a basic door construction that is tried and true and been around a lot longer than either of us. Yes, and if that panel is tight and glued to the stile, when it expands it can and will likely blow apart the stile/rail joint, regardless if it is doweled or mortise and tenon. All rights reserved."Isn't it true that most/all of the expansion will be in the cross-grain direction?" Ĭopyright© 2002 by Columbus Door Company.1884 Elmwood Avenue, Warwick, RI 02888. Non-standard construction will increase door pricesĪre manufactured per the standards listed. 11 (1-1-97 Edition) to determine the need for safety-rated glazing. Refer to consumer Product Safety Commission CAT. Marshfield DoorSystems does not assume responsibility for the choice of glazing materials used. Scratches may be more apparent when a darker stain is applied. Horizontal grain of veneer faces will have crossgrain scratches at 180 grit. Color variation will occur between stiles/rails/panels. (4) Medium density fiberboard is exposed at top and bottom of door. (3) Dimensions shown are prior to fitting. (2) Larger bottom rails available which meet the American Disabilities Act requirements. (1) Use of Marshfield DoorSystems Stile & Rail Doors in exterior applications is not recommended and not warranted. Limited life of original installation (1) Clear or stain with satin gloss topcoat.Medium-density composite core which meets ANSI A208.1 standards. Pair: Fire retardant stiles with optional veneer band Stile edges and sticking match face species Note: These doors are tested for neutral pressure.ġ/20" thickness wood veneer Red & White Oak, Mahogany, Walnut, Cherry, Poplar, Natural Birch, other species on special request Ask about other product configuration options to meet your plans and specifications. Many configurations of the Stile & Rail Door are available with 20-minute Intertek Testing Services Warnock Hersey (ITS-WH) labels. They are recommended for architectural applications where aesthetics and uniformity in look, finish and quality are important. Styled TM Door, which carries fire-ratings of up toĩ0 minutes. They perfectly complement Marshfield DoorSystems In our Stile & Rail Door we offer 18 of the most popular standard Stile & Rail configurations.
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